Port Moresby Travel Guide: What to See, Eat & Experience
My first impression of Port Moresby was the heat that hits you the moment you step off the plane. The city feels larger than its reputation, with a mix of modern office blocks, sprawling suburbs, and a coastline that suddenly opens up when you drive toward the waterfront.
Most visitors spend only a day or two, but I found that with a bit of planning you can see the highlights, eat food you won’t forget, and even squeeze in a short hike outside the city. Below is what worked for me, broken down into the basics you’ll need before you land.
Getting There & Getting Around
The main gateway is Jacksons International Airport, about 15 km from the city centre. A taxi from the terminal to downtown costs roughly 20 PGK (about US$5) and takes 20‑30 minutes depending on traffic. I always asked the driver to turn on the meter; some will quote a flat rate that’s a bit higher.
If you’re on a tight budget, the local minibuses called “bush taxis” run along the main road and charge around 2 PGK per ride. They’re cramped, often packed with goods, but they get you to places like Ela Beach for a fraction of the price.
Driving yourself is possible if you rent a car; most agencies require an international driver’s licence and a deposit of about 500 PGK. The roads are in decent condition around the city, but potholes appear after heavy rains, so keep a spare tyre handy.
For short trips across town, I relied on ride‑hailing apps such as “Mobi” and “Yello”. The app shows the fare before you confirm, usually 8‑12 PGK for a trip to the National Museum. Payment is cash‑only, so have small notes ready.
- Airport taxi: 20 PGK, 20‑30 min to city centre.
- Bush taxi: 2 PGK per ride, no seat belts.
- Car hire: 150 PGK per day, 500 PGK deposit.
- Ride‑hailing: 8‑12 PGK, cash only.
Where to Stay
I chose the Holiday Inn for its central location and reliable Wi‑Fi. The room cost 180 PGK per night, which is mid‑range for the city. Breakfast was included and featured tropical fruit, toast, and a boiled egg, simple but filling.
If you prefer something cheaper, the Port Moresby Backpackers offers dorm beds for 30 PGK. It’s a basic place with shared bathrooms, but the staff can arrange a guide for a day trip to the nearby mountains.
For a more local feel, I booked a guesthouse in the suburb of Gerehu. The family ran a small restaurant where you could try fresh fish for 25 PGK. The rooms are air‑conditioned, and the owners will gladly explain the best market days.
All accommodations require a passport copy at check‑in, and most will ask for a credit card for incidentals even if you’re paying cash. Security is generally good; most places have a guard at the gate and a simple lock on the door.
- Holiday Inn: 180 PGK/night, central, Wi‑Fi.
- Backpackers: 30 PGK/dorm, basic, guide help.
- Gerehu guesthouse: 70 PGK/night, local meals.
- Always bring passport copy and small cash.
What to See
The National Museum and Art Gallery is the first stop for most travelers. Admission is 10 PGK and you can spend an hour looking at traditional masks, WWII artifacts, and a small collection of contemporary PNG art.
Ela Beach is the city’s main waterfront. It’s free, and the sunrise view over the lagoon is worth the early alarm. I rented a kayak for 15 PGK an hour and paddled out to the reef at low tide, the water was surprisingly clear.
For a dose of nature, head to the Botanical Gardens in the suburb of Gordons. The entry fee is 5 PGK and you’ll find a mix of native orchids, towering palms, and a small aviary where you can hear the call of the Papuan frogmouth.
A short drive north takes you to the Port Moresby Nature Park, a wildlife sanctuary that charges 20 PGK. You can watch tree kangaroos leaping between platforms and learn about conservation efforts from a guide who speaks fluent Tok Pisin.
- National Museum: 10 PGK, 1‑hour visit.
- Ela Beach: free, sunrise best.
- Kayak rental: 15 PGK/hour.
- Botanical Gardens: 5 PGK, orchids.
- Nature Park: 20 PGK, tree kangaroo.
What to Eat
Breakfast at most hotels is a continental spread, but the real flavors start at lunch. I tried a “sago pudding” at a market stall for 8 PGK, it’s a sweet, gelatinous dessert made from the starch of the sago palm.
Seafood is abundant. The restaurant “Sea Breeze” on the waterfront serves grilled snapper for 30 PGK, served with a side of coconut rice and a squeeze of lime. The fish was fresh, caught that morning, and the service was quick.
If you’re feeling adventurous, order “mumu”, a traditional earth‑oven dish. It’s prepared with pork, sweet potatoes, and banana leaves, then slow‑cooked underground. The price at the “Mumu House” is 45 PGK, and you get a generous portion that feeds two.
For a quick snack, head to a “kiosk” on the main road and buy a “koko”, a spiced tea made from local herbs. It costs 2 PGK and gives a gentle caffeine lift without the bitterness of coffee.
- Sago pudding: 8 PGK, sweet snack.
- Grilled snapper: 30 PGK, coconut rice.
- Mumu: 45 PGK, traditional earth‑oven.
- Koko tea: 2 PGK, local herb brew.
Experiences & Day Trips
One of the highlights was a half‑day hike to the Kokoda Trail’s lower section. I booked a local guide for 80 PGK, and we trekked through dense rainforest, spotting a rare bird called the “Papuan fantail”. The trailhead is reachable by a 30‑minute bush taxi ride.
Another memorable outing was a boat trip to the nearby islands of Loloata and Kiri. The charter cost 150 PGK for a four‑hour round trip, including snorkeling gear and a simple lunch of grilled fish and plantains.
If you prefer staying on land, the “Mount Wilhelm” base camp can be reached with a 3‑hour drive and a short walk. I stayed overnight in a basic lodge for 120 PGK; the sunrise from the foothills is spectacular, with clouds drifting over the highlands.
For a cultural immersion, I visited the Hanuabada village on a Saturday morning. The community welcomed us with a traditional dance, and I learned how to weave a small basket from pandanus leaves. There’s no entry fee, but a small donation of 10 PGK is appreciated.
- Kokoda Trail hike: 80 PGK guide, 2‑hour trek.
- Island boat trip: 150 PGK, snorkel gear.
- Mount Wilhelm base: 120 PGK lodge, 3‑hour drive.
- Hanuabada village: free, 10 PGK donation.
- Always carry cash for tips and small fees.
Practical Tips
Visas are granted on arrival for most nationalities, costing 100 PGK (about US$28) and valid for 30 days. Have your passport printed on one side; the immigration officer will ask to see the copy before stamping.
Safety is a concern in certain districts after dark. Stick to well‑lit areas, use registered taxis, and keep valuables out of sight. I never walked alone after 9 pm, and I always let my hotel know where I was going.
Currency is the Papua New Guinea kina (PGK). ATMs are available at the airport and in the city centre, but they can be temperamental. I withdrew 500 PGK each time and kept the rest in a hidden pouch.
Internet is spotty outside the main hotels. I bought a local SIM card from Digicel for 25 PGK, which gave me 5 GB of data for a week, enough for maps and occasional messages.