Big Island Road Trip: How to Explore Hawaii’s Most Diverse Island

We landed at Kona International Airport on a bright Tuesday in early March. The rental desk was already busy, but the staff got us on a compact SUV in under ten minutes.

From the moment we pulled onto the highway, the island felt like a series of surprises waiting around each bend. I kept a notebook handy because I kept spotting signs for hidden beaches and roadside fruit stands.

Getting There and Renting a Ride

The island’s two airports are Kona on the west side and Hilo on the east. I flew into Kona because the rental fleet there is larger and the drive to the north coast is smoother.

Book the car a week in advance if you travel in June or December; otherwise a day‑old reservation often works. I chose a four‑door with automatic transmission; the roads can get steep but the power is there.

Fuel stations are plentiful on the coastal highways but become sparse inland. I filled the tank at a 7‑Eleven in Waimea before heading to the park; the price was $4.89 per gallon.

Parking at most beaches is free, but the state park at Hapuna charges $5 per vehicle for the day. The kiosk only takes cash, so I kept a few $20 bills in the glove box.

Insurance is a good idea; my credit card covered collision but not the deductible. I added the $12 per day loss‑damage waiver and felt better driving the winding roads.

Bring a USB charger for the car’s cigarette lighter; the built‑in Bluetooth died on the first day. A cheap 10‑foot cable kept my phone alive for navigation and photos.

• Airport: Kona (KOA) for west side, Hilo (ITO) for east side.
• Rental: book 7+ days ahead in peak season, $45‑$70 per day for a compact SUV.
• Fuel: $4.89/gal on average, fill up before heading inland.
• Parking: free at most beaches, $5 at state parks.
• Insurance: add $12/day loss‑damage waiver if not covered.

North Shore: Beaches and Coffee

The first stop was Kua Bay, a white‑sand crescent just off the highway. I arrived at 9 am, the tide was low, and the water was clear enough to see the reef.

Parking cost $2 for the hour, and the lot fills up by mid‑morning on weekends. I grabbed a cold Kona Brewing lager from the tiny kiosk for $6.

Next, I drove north to Hawi, a tiny town with an art gallery that sells locally woven baskets. The owner, a woman in a bright shirt, offered me a free sample of her homemade pineapple jam.

Just a mile away, the coffee farms on the slopes of Mauna Kea start to appear. I toured a family‑run plantation, watched beans being washed, and paid $15 for a bag of medium roast.

The road to the farm is a gravel stretch that rattles the windows; I kept my speed under 35 mph to avoid shaking the camera. The view of the ocean beyond the hills made it worth the wobble.

At sunset, I stopped at a small beach bar in Pololu Valley. They serve shrimp plates for $12 and a cold soda for $2. The cliffs glow orange as the sun dips.

• Kua Bay: arrive early, $2 parking, $6 for a local beer.
• Hawi: art gallery, free pineapple jam sample.
• Coffee farm tour: $15 per bag, gravel road, drive < 35 mph.
• Pololu Valley bar: shrimp plate $12, soda $2.
• Sunset tip: bring a light jacket; it cools quickly.

Volcanoes National Park: Lava and History

Leaving the north, I turned onto Highway 11 and followed the signs to the park entrance. The entrance fee is $30 per vehicle for a seven‑day pass.

Inside the park, the first stop was the Kilauea Visitor Center. The ranger gave me a map and warned that the crater floor can be slippery after rain.

I hiked the 1.2‑mile Devastation Trail; it takes about 45 minutes and has interpretive signs about the 1959 eruption. The trail is flat, but the ash underfoot makes it feel like walking on powder.

After the hike, I drove to the Chain of Craters Road. The road is paved but has a few potholes; I kept a spare tire in the trunk just in case.

At the end of the road, the old Halemaʻumaʻu crater was a shallow bowl filled with steam. I spent ten minutes taking photos, then bought a souvenir magnet for $4.

We stayed overnight at the Volcano House hotel, which cost $180 for a queen room with a view of the lava flow. The Wi‑Fi was spotty, but the sunrise over the crater made up for it.

• Entrance fee: $30 per vehicle, 7‑day pass.
• Devastation Trail: 1.2 mi, 45 min, flat ash surface.
• Chain of Craters Road: watch for potholes, keep spare tire.
• Halemaʻumaʻu crater: free view, $4 souvenir magnet.
• Volcano House: $180/night, lava view, limited Wi‑Fi.

East Coast: Hilo and Waterfalls

Leaving the park, I descended into Hilo via Highway 11. The town feels like a rainforest town, with gardens spilling onto the streets.

I parked at the Hilo Farmers Market for $3 and spent an hour sampling fresh papaya, banana bread, and a cup of ginger tea for $2. The market runs daily until 4 pm.

Just a short drive away is Rainbow Falls, a 80‑foot drop that creates a misty rainbow on sunny days. The parking lot is free but fills up by 10 am in summer.

Next, I visited Akaka Falls State Park. The trail is a 0.4‑mile loop with a wooden boardwalk; it takes about 20 minutes and is wheelchair accessible.

Inside the park, the waterfall drops 442 feet into a lush gorge. I bought a bottle of locally bottled water for $1.50; the park has no vending machines.

For dinner, I headed to a small restaurant on Banyan Drive called Café Pesto. The spaghetti with clams was $18, and the service was quick because the kitchen was only a few seats.

• Hilo Farmers Market: $3 parking, fresh fruit, ginger tea $2.
• Rainbow Falls: free parking, best before 10 am.
• Akaka Falls trail: 0.4 mi loop, 20 min, wheelchair friendly.
• Water bottle: $1.50, no vending machines inside park.
• Café Pesto: spaghetti with clams $18, small kitchen.

South Coast: Kona, Snorkel, and Sunsets

Driving back toward Kona, I took Highway 19 south. The road hugs the coastline, and every few miles a new beach appears.

My first stop was Kahaluʻu Beach Park, known for calm waters and sea turtles. The entry fee is $5 per car, and I rented a snorkel set for $12 at a nearby shop.

Underwater, I saw a green sea turtle grazing on algae and a few reef fish that were almost neon. I stayed for about an hour, then bought a fresh pineapple from a vendor for $3.

Later, I drove to Captain Cook Monument. The boat ride from Kealakekua Bay costs $45 per person and lasts 30 minutes each way. The guide told stories about the 1779 landing.

After the boat, I walked the short trail to the monument; the view of the bay is worth the climb. I took a quick dip, the water was about 78 °F.

For the final evening, I booked a table at a beachfront restaurant in Kailua‑Kona. The grilled Mahi‑Mahi was $22, and the sunset painted the sky in orange and pink.

• Kahaluʻu Beach: $5 parking, snorkel rental $12, pineapple $3.
• Captain Cook boat tour: $45 per person, 30‑min each way.
• Monument trail: short hike, great bay view.
• Water temperature: ~78 °F, comfortable for a quick swim.
• Kona dinner: grilled Mahi‑Mahi $22, sunset view.

Practical Tips for the Whole Loop

Time management is the biggest challenge; the island is big enough that you can spend a day just driving. I kept a spreadsheet on my phone with mileage and estimated travel time.

Bring a reusable water bottle; many rest areas have refill stations. I filled up at a grocery store in Waimea for free, then used it throughout the day.